
If you're coming to a Summer of Writing workshop from outside Oxford, and want to make a weekend of it, here are my favourite suggestions for the perfect Oxford weekend. Obviously Oxford has heaps of things to do and a dozen dozen guidebooks, so this isn't remotely comprehensive: it's my idiosyncratic selection of the favourite places I'd take people, having lived here since 2002. Curated, of course, around your writing workshop on Saturday!
Accommodation
Absolutely book yourself a room in one of Oxford's gorgeous colleges, through University Bookings. The students are away so the rooms are available to book, and you get to roam through the college's gorgeous grounds as well, for the complete Oxfordian experience. Most of them do breakfast included, served in the college dining hall or buttery. The prices vary wildly, according to college and whim; this year they seem to start at £70 a night. Also ask if you're allowed to leave your luggage in the porter's lodge after you've checked out, so you can explore luggage-free on Sunday.
Once that's booked for Friday and Saturday night, your itinerary begins!
Friday evening
Your college (for the weekend)
Check into your college room and have a wander around the quads and grounds of your chosen college, have a look in its chapel and dining hall, make sure to look up regularly for gargoyle-spotting, fill yer boots with Dark Academia inspiration, etc. Don't walk on the grass, though. Even students aren't allowed to, except during games of croquet.
Friday dinner
For dinner, take a walk into Jericho, past Oxford University Press on Walton Street, largest university press in the world. (Cambridge will say theirs is older. Ours is bigger. And the second-oldest in the world.) And head to either of these restaurants:
- The Standard on Walton Street: best Indian food in Oxford. It's been running since 1972, and for many years had heavily tapestried high seating and an absolute veil of thick lace covering the huge front window. In 2009, the two sons took over from the father, transformed the interior into its lovely open new look, and also updated the cooking style to a fresher, more modern vibe. Kawsar is the brother who works the front of house and he's absolutely lovely.
- The Gardener's Arms on Plantation Road (not the one on North Parade!): beautiful bookish pub with a cheerful garden at the back, serving amazing vegetarian pub food. Their veggie burgers are absolutely stand-out. It's run by Silk, who's also absolutely lovely. (When you're standing at the bar, turn and look in the corner to your right behind you: that's a painting of Silk looking all steampunk in flying gear. Now you can recognise him.)
After dinner
After dinner, if you want to explore a bit more before bed and get a final nightcap, stroll back into town along the Woodstock Road / St Giles, past the Eagle and Child pub where Tolkien and CS Lewis held their writing group (currently closed until they can fix up the building), past Martyr's Memorial, and turn left onto Broad Street.
Wander between the colleges, over the brick cross where the martyrs actually died (try not to venerate the nearby manhole instead by mistake, as many groups of tourists do), past assorted bookshops and museums (don't worry, they're on Sunday's list), past the Bodleian Library. Turn right onto Catte Street and almost immediately left onto Queen's Lane, and walk under the Bridge of Sighs. (Cambridge and Venice have one of those each too. Ours is better. Obvs.) Various stories compete to explain its name, mostly apocryphal, so feel free to make up your own.
Immediately after you pass under the Bridge of Sighs, turn left down the little alleway. Trust me. Keep following it, as it twists and leads you past bins, and you'll get to the Turf Tavern: a huge and sprawling tavern dating back to 1381, which proudly boasts its history on assorted chalkboards, patio / outside space on both sides of it, and it nestles up against a portion of the old city wall.
Head back to your college to fall asleep to the sound of Oxford's many, many bells. If you hear bells ringing five minutes after all the others, that's Christ Church's Great Tom: they don't hold with this newfangled modern time, brought in with those newfangled "railways" and their need for consistent "timetables", and proudly stick to Oxford time.
Saturday
Breakfast & packed lunch
It's workshop day! Breakfast in your college if they do breakfast. You'll want a packed lunch for your workshop and I always suggest something non-carby for writing days, so head to Taylors Oxford on 1 Woodstock Road to pick up one of their delicious customisable salads. (You can pop it in the fridge at mine when you arrive.) If your college doesn't do breakfast, you can also breakfast at Taylors, with a pastry and coffee. NB: There are two Taylors right next to each other across the road from each other. If you're facing them, you want the one on the right.
Off to your workshop!
Then walk up Woodstock Road to outside the Radcliffe Observatory, where you can catch the #6 bus to get to mine. (Bus stop map-pin.) You're getting off at the top of Woodstock Road, at the First Turn Lane stop (map-pin), and you have a map in the email I'll have sent you.
The 9:36 am bus will get you to First Turn Lane at 9:44, 3-4 mins walk from mine. If you get anxious about bus times and prefer to arrive early, you can get the 9:16 am bus, which reaches your stop at 9:24, and pass any extra time peacefully overlooking the canal (map-pin) three minutes' walk from the workshop. You're welcome to arrive at mine from 9:45 am.
Your workshop starts! (At 10 am sharp. Unlike Christ Church, I don't keep Oxford time.) I'll also give you a little map of the rivers, canals, and woods around mine, so you can have a refreshing wander at lunchtime if you want.
After the workshop finishes at 4pm, we usually go to The Plough pub on the green, three minutes' walk from the house, to toast your success and socialise a bit more.
A good long walk & dinner
I'm now making the bold assumption that you want a good long walk, while all the excitement and new info from the workshop percolates, and now that the heat of the day has eased a little. This is an hour's walk, if you're going at a steady pace, with another half-hour at the other end.
Walk through Wolvercote village, over the railway bridge with its sweeping view of Port Meadow, all the way through the village and past the Trout pub (that's where young Lyra worked for a bit in Philip Pullman's Book of Dust series), over the bridge, and turn left through the gate onto the meadow by the ruins of Godstow Abbey. (That was built in 1133 and housed Benedectine nuns. It also features in The Book of Dust.) The map I gave you at lunch covers all the way up to Godstow Abbey.
You're now on Port Meadow: a stretch of ancient meadow that has never been built on or even ploughed for at least 4000 years. It's still used as grazing, for cows and horses, and you'll probably pass some of them as you walk. As well as heaps of swans, geese, etc. Stroll south alongside the river, soaking in the beauty and the sight of Oxford's spires in the distance, for about half an hour, till you find a gate in front of you with another gate to the right, here (map-pin): that's the gate leading to The Perch Pub. And the bit of riverbank you're standing on is pretty much where Alice Liddell and Lewis Carroll had the picnic that led to him writing Alice in Wonderland.
Go through the gate and follow the winding path up to the Perch, with its huge beautiful garden and protected willow trees. Their food's fantastic (the head chef's called Craig, btw) but they're definitely on the pricier side, so if you want a slap-up dinner, have your dinner there (their pies are especially good), otherwise just stop for a coffee or a drink in the gorgeous garden, while you jot down all the interesting thoughts you had while walking. Do admire the truly ancient apple tree, carefully fenced round and propped up to support it!
From the Perch, walk back onto the meadow the way you came, and continue on through the rest of the meadow, crossing the Medley Bridge and the Bailey Bridge, then the last stretch of meadow to Walton Well Road. (Those three links are map-pins, to help you find your way.)
You're now back in Jericho, so if you didn't eat at the Perch, you can head to the Gardener's Arms or The Standard, whichever you didn't try last night. And if you didn't go to the Turf Tavern last night, you could pop in there - or even if you did. There's nothing like going somewhere twice, while you're away, to make you feel like it's already your usual spot! Or if you want a drink somewhere new (and also very old), head to The Bear Inn in the happy chaos of alleys behind the High Street, with its collection of thousands of tie ends started in 1957. (Time was, you could cut the end of your tie off in exchange for a pint.) It's popular with academics, so if any are still in town in August, you can eavesdrop some fascinatingly odd bits of conversation!
Or simply go back to your college (it's yours, this weekend) and sit on a bench in one of the quads, with your notebook, writing quietly and peacefully, while the bats dart in and out of the ivy and wisteria.
Sunday
Lots of possibilities here, so pick and choose from the below, for as much as you want to fit in and how much time you need to travel home.
Brunch / Lunch
The Vaults & Garden Cafe is so beautifully positioned you might worry it's a tourist trap: it's not. The food's fab and good value. I take visitors there and often have May Day breakfast there. If you're breakfasting in your college, save the Vaults for a light lunch; if not, enjoy a good brunch. It's in the vaults of St Mary's University Church, where the uni started as just a shelf of books. Sit outside at the garden tables, with the Radcliffe Camera in the centre of the square made up of St Mary's, the Bodleian Library opposite, All Soul's College to your right, and Brasenose College (my one) to your left. Be quietly staggered by architecture. (And, if you're wearing heels, by cobbles.) Then pick your museumy option!
Museumy Option 1: Science and books
The History of Science Museum on Broad Street is my favourite museum in Oxford, mostly because it has the world's largest collection of astrolabes. It's small but beautiful, in a building that absolutely breathes peace. Don't miss the Lyra exhibition, complete with alethiometer, in the one small basement, and the larger basement with the history of medicine exhibits.
Directly opposite the museum is Blackwells Bookshop, home to The Norringtom Room, featuring three miles of bookshelves. (Not all in one long row, obviously.) The first time I saw it, at 19 years old, I started hyperventilating at the sight of so many books and had to go back outside to calm down. Also another four storeys of books, in this huge and sprawling bookshop, with secondhand books at the very top, and a cafe inside the bookshop.
Museumy Option 2: Natural history, cultures, and greenery
Stroll up South Parks Road to the Natural History Museum. That's pretty cool, but even better, walk right through the Natural History Museum to the Pitt Rivers Museum at the back. (Yes, the one that Lyra visited. We are very much in favour of Lyra's Oxford!) It's an anthropologial museum, absolutely crammed with stuff - so much so that vast swathes of it are in drawers, with signs inviting you to open them! And very beautifully, everything's organised by purpose, rather than culture or time period, so you'll have a cabinet of all the different ways to make fire, for instance. Brilliant inspiration if you write fantasy! The famous / infamous shrunken heads have finally, respectfully, been removed. Do put a coin into the slot with the weird little clay creatures!
When your head is bursting with thoughts, continue strolling up South Parks Road to University Parks. The northernmost side has a lovely tree-lined avenue, if you're after shade, and then you can wander down that to the pond and the river, and fill your eyes with greenery.
Lunch time?
If you've not had your lunch, this is the moment to head over to the Vaults!
An afternoon in a punt
(Sensitive crimes and a book of poetry stained with the butter drips from crumpets optional)
From the center of town, wander under the Bridge of Sighs and down Queen's Lane (map-pin link), through its twists and turns round the backs of the colleges. The fourth time you turn, when you're here (map-pin link), you'll see the pavement widen in a little curve to your left. Go stand in that curve, then turn around to see the fairytale spires of All Souls' College rising. If I were with you, I'd tell you that All Souls' has never had a single student.
(Then I'd pause, before admitting it's a Fellows College, which is why.)
Keep on down Queen's Lane, and as always in Oxford, look up lots: gargoyles are eveywhere! You'll emerge on The High, next to Queen's Lane Coffee Shop (oldest coffee shop in the UK, ignore the lies that Grand Cafe opposite tells) and carry on down the High to Magdalen Bridge. Just before you cross the Bridge, veer to the left to go down to Magdalen Bridge Boathouse, to rent a punt. (If you know you're definitely going to punt, and are prepared to commit
to a time, book a punt beforehand, so you don't have to stand in the
queue - it can get very long.)
Then spend a glorious hour or two punting along the river past the Oxford Botanical Gardens (oldest botanical gardens in the UK) and Christ Church Meadow, through river scents and tree shade, all Oxford's spires and spikes showing to their best advantage, with occasional bells. So that when you do, finally, leave Oxford to head home, your eyes, mind, and soul are absolutely swimming with peace and joy.
If you haven't booked a Summer of Writing workshop yet, there are still a few places on Planning a Novel and Unravelling Secrets, and you can put your name down for a waiting-list place on The Art of Short Stories, Living Characters, and Non-Human Characters. See all the details and book here.